Satu Maaranen, Head Designer / © Marimekko

Legendary Finnish design house Marimekko has been making serious waves in the streetwear space lately and this year their fall-winter 2020 Kioski campaign looks better than ever. We got the opportunity to interview the head designer of ready-to-wear at Marimekko, Satu Maaranen. Let’s jump right into the interview:

How are you holding up in the midst of launching a vast collection during a global pandemic?

Holding up fine! We just need to adapt and be aware of how the consumer behaviour is shifting in this world situation. I think it is a great opportunity to rethink our assortment plan.

What is your background in fashion & design?

I started as the head designer of Marimekko's ready-to-wear, bags and accessories in January 2018. I was really familiar with the brand already, I had been designing clothes and prints for Marimekko since 2010 as a freelance designer.

I’m a graduate of Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture where I studied art and then fashion design. I have worked for many fashion brands such as such as the French brand Petit Bateau and the Chinese Exception de Mixmind …. In 2013 I also won the Grand Prix at the prestigious Hyères Fashion Festival in France, which was a great moment.

Marimekko is historically one of the most significant Finnish brands. What does it take to lead such an important legacy?

You have to get to know the history of the brand in depth – understand all the stories and also what was the original vision of the founder of Marimekko, Armi Ratia. She was such a special lady! It’s important reflect on the past, but then equally important to look to the future. We constantly think of ways to modernize the Marimekko way of living to ensure that is relevant today and tomorrow.

In your opinion, what makes Marimekko one of the most significant Finnish brands?

What sets us apart I think first and foremost is the craft that we have remained faithful to for almost 70 years now: the art of printmaking. Marimekko was literally founded around creative printmaking: Our founder Armi Ratia wanted to invite young Finnish designers to create patterns for the company’s printing factory back in the 1950's, and that’s still how we operate today. Our design library contains over 3,500 prints at the moment, and we invite new artists to design for us each year! The textile printing factory located in Herttoniemi, Helsinki is still the heart and soul of the company.

Another thing to highlight is the dresses. They have always been in Marimekko’s DNA, like our name suggests!

Gender neutral fashion has been a topic widely discussed in the mainstream media (especially in Finland) in recent times and Marimekko’s Kioski collection is said to be gender neutral. How does gender neutrality manifest itself through the collection?

Gender neutrality is more and more relevant in fashion as a whole, definitely. Marimekko’s story is centered around dresses, but it's important to point out that anyone can wear a dress. If you like it, just wear it! Our job as designers is to empower people to be happy as they are through the things we design, no matter their gender or gender expression.

Marimekko actually has a long history with gender-neutral clothing. The classic Jokapoika (every boy) shirt is probably one of Finland's first true gender-neutral garments, it was first introduced already in 1956! Our gender neutral Tasaraita jersey shirts also date from 1969.

Right from the start, it was clear to us that we wanted Kioski collections to be gender neutral. The Kioski line was created to introduce our most iconic prints to a new audience with a range of super wearable staples, and the collection especially encapsulates Marimekko's values of creative courage and the act of living, not pretending. Anyone can wear Kioski irrespective of age, size and gender!

The Kioski product line features more products than ever before - what are some new additions to the collection?

This season, we really played with the iconic Marimekko logo. We have added super fun logo beanies, and this long sleeve tee for example. New textures have also been introduced for this new collection. A big bold Unikko placement print is seen in a padded version on the Huipennus sweater, and in beautiful silver foil on the fan favorite Runoja hoodie.

What is your favorite item/piece from the collection personally?

The beanie with the tassle on top. A true Finnish hiihtopipo!

You talk about boredom being a source of creativity. Do you think there is a specific season of the year when you feel most creative?

During my summer holiday, especially when it is spent one month in a row 😊 The best ideas come at the end of the holiday when you feel relaxed and your mind has had break from work.

What do you think is the biggest difference between Marimekko Kioski collection and Marimekko’s other lines?

Marimekko Kioski are pieces that are first and foremost simple and easy to wear – true wardrobe staples. The collection in especially inspired by our iconic Unikko (poppy) print that stands for creativity .

I would say that our main collection features more variety and drama – more different cuts, shapes and prints, for both day and night. The product range is also wider in the main collection. The feel of the main collection is more elegant and elevated, not that many streetwear vibes.

Would you ever consider giving young designers an opportunity to design their own Kioski collections?

Marimekko is all about having doing things together and operating as a creative community. We currently have no collaboration plans for Kioski, but for next year's anniversary year, we are launching a very special and exciting collaborative design concept called co-created. In 2021, we have invited young creatives to re-interpret Marimekko’s design language and philosophy throughout the year. The co-created collections will manifest themselves as capsules of limited-edition items inside each main collection. For the year's first collection (Pre-Spring 2021), the co-created collection was created in collaboration with award-winning designers Antti Kekki and Matts Bjolin.

Are there any possibilities for young independent designers to collaborate with the Kioski collection?

You never know! Maybe at some point. All in all collaborations in Kioski would be great in the future.

2H9A5608_Maaranen 2 edit.jpg — **What is your favourite Marimekko pattern?**

Keidas (oasis) or Jokeri (joker) at the moment. Both patterns have been designed in the 1960s by Annika Rimala. My favorites shift depending on the year or season.

The Marimekko Kioski fall-winter 2020 collection is a curated selection of gender-neutral streetwear pieces, which is built on frosty hues drawn from the Finnish wintertime. This season, the Marimekko Kioski line consists of a super-sized Unikko blooms on a monochromatic padded sweater and the vastly popular Runoja hoodie is brought back with a shimmering silver foil print. In addition, the Kioski line is now growing with the introduction of a long-sleeve tee and a set of beanies proudly carrying the iconic Marimekko logo.